February 1, 2025
Chettinad, a land of heritage and craftsmanship, is home to the Chettiar community, known for their prosperous trading history and exquisite architectural sensibilities. Their grand homes, adorned with intricate carvings, imported materials, and opulent detailing, are living testaments to their refined taste. Visalam, in particular, stands as a veritable museum of this rich legacy, with every corner radiating authenticity and historical charm.
Stepping into Visalam in Chettinad felt like stepping into a different era—a world of grandeur, nostalgia, and timeless charm. This century-old mansion, originally built by KVAL Ramanathan Chettiar for his beloved daughter Visalakshi, was intended to be a lively family home. However, it remained a quiet retreat for occasional gatherings until its meticulous restoration by CGH Earth transformed it into a heritage hotel, allowing visitors to experience its enduring legacy.
Restoration efforts at Visalam were carried out with remarkable dedication, ensuring that its soul remained intact. Rather than making drastic changes, the vast halls were thoughtfully partitioned into spacious guest rooms, preserving the mansion's original spirit. As I wandered through the corridors, I marveled at the polished Burma teak furniture, the gleaming Athangudi tiles, and the soaring ceilings that told tales of a bygone era. The gleaming plasterwork of Chettinad’s homes is a unique blend of eggshells, lime, palm jaggery, and seashells, hand-ground to perfection. The final polish, done with egg whites, is a closely guarded technique known to only a few. The result is a strikingly smooth, glossy finish that must be seen and touched to be truly appreciated.
The 15 rooms are spread across two floors and across two categories. All rooms are palatial with an anteroom, four poster beds, dressing tables, writing desks and large bathrooms with luxurious amenities. The bed runners, cushions, and even staff uniforms are sourced from Chettinad’s renowned handloom weavers, who continue to create vibrant cotton fabrics using traditional techniques.
One of the most memorable aspects of my stay at Visalam was the opportunity to savor authentic Chettinad cuisine. Known for its bold spices and intricate flavors, this culinary tradition is a feast for the senses. I took part in an interactive kitchen session led by Manikandan, a young and enthusiastic member of the staff, who guided us through the preparation of Ennai Kathirikai, a rich aubergine curry that embodies the essence of Chettinad cooking.
Dining at Visalam is an experience in itself, with meals served in different picturesque settings across the property. Mornings begin with a breakfast thali under the shade of a bougainvillea canopy, while a traditional Chettinad lunch thali is enjoyed poolside. As dusk falls, a curated four-course dinner is served on the terrace, overlooking an open kitchen where the magic unfolds. A signature CGH Earth touch is their charming tea shop, offering complimentary tea, coffee, and snacks to guests every morning and evening.
Beyond the comfort of Visalam, Chettinad offers a rich tapestry of experiences, thoughtfully curated by the hotel. I embarked on a morning cycling tour with their knowledgeable guide, Shiva, who led me through the quiet village lanes to the intricately designed Solai Andavar Temple. In the evening, a walking tour with Shiva revealed the grandeur of Chettinad’s iconic mansions, each steeped in history and architectural splendor.
For collectors and history enthusiasts, the bustling antique market is a treasure trove of relics from a bygone era—brass utensils, wooden chests, and vintage lithographs line the stalls. A short ride away lies Aathangudy, a village famous for its handmade tiles, where artisans continue to craft each piece using time-honored techniques. Nearby, a small handloom unit showcases vibrant Chettinad cotton sarees, woven with remarkable craftsmanship. Adding to this cultural immersion, a local cooperative run by over 30 women prepares traditional snacks, ensuring visitors get a taste of true Chettinad hospitality.
After a day of exploration, taking a dip in the serene pool or indulging in a traditional herbal massage is a perfect way to unwind and absorb the essence of Chettinad.
Visalam is more than just a heritage hotel; it is an immersive journey into the culture, history, and traditions of Chettinad. Whether you're a history enthusiast, a food lover, or a traveler seeking a unique experience, Visalam offers a glimpse into a world where time slows down, and every detail speaks of a rich and vibrant past.
Best way to get there is a flight to Madurai or Trichy.
Rooms start at Rs 16,000+
Book: www.cghearth.com/visalam
