January 16, 2025
When city life gets too loud, the best remedy is often the quiet charm of a retreat that feels worlds away. That’s exactly what I found during my stay at The Hill House, a stunning homestead nestled on the side of a cliff overlooking the lush, rolling hills and agricultural fields of Nathdwara.
The drive to Nathdwara, just an hour away from Udaipur, is a journey through winding roads framed by the rugged beauty of Rajasthan's Aravalli hills. Perched on the serene hills of Modwa, just a stone’s throw from Nathdwara’s bustling Shrinathji temple, the Hill House is spread across 12 acres.
Ghanshyam Singh, the patriarch behind this beautiful abode, was born into the royal lineage of Jodhpur’s Raoti region. He spent a large part of his career in Assam’s verdant tea estates, where he worked with McLeod Russel. In 2013, Ghanshyam, with his wife Nidhi and daughters Geetika and Shivambika, returned to Rajasthan to build a home that blended the timeless charm of colonial Rajasthan with the tranquility of their cherished tea estate life.
As I stepped inside the Hill House, I was greeted by Shivambika who looks after guest relations and runs the property like clockwork. I was struck by the property's graceful design. The architecture mirrored the colonial-style bungalows once common in Rajasthan, with high ceilings, expansive verandahs, and an effortless flow between indoor and outdoor spaces. The manicured lawns led to a stunning infinity pool surrounded by loungers that allow you to soak in the tranquility of the space. The terraces frame breathtaking views of the 369-foot tall Shiva Statue, the quaint town below, and endless agricultural hamlets scattered across the horizon. The family’s love for history was evident in every detail—from antique furniture sourced from local craftsmen to the vintage photographs and artifacts that adorned the walls. Over a cup of steaming chai, Shivambika spoke of her family’s journey and the birth of The Hill House. The story was complemented by her Shih Tzu - Duke who enjoys spending time with guests.
The eight guest rooms are spacious and well lit where the design of each room has been inspired by a time in the family's life. I stayed in the Martingale Suite that seamlessly bridges the vintage and contemporary eras, offering a harmonious blend of muted tones, intricately carved furniture, and carefully curated décor. Exploring the lower floor, I was captivated by the Singh family’s private quarters, adorned with ancestral portraits and curated treasures that whispered tales of their storied past.
One of the highlights of my stay was the food. There is no fixed menu. Shivambika pens down the specials for the day. Dishes have been carefully crafted by Nidhi Singh and are all made from recipes that have been passed down over generations. The property’s family-run management ensures that every meal feels personalized, whether you’re dining al fresco on the terrace or in the intimate, indoor dining room. Some of the local specialties included spring onion sabzi, lasooni palak, Rajasthani kadhi pakoda, lal maas and gajar halwa. The pumpkin almond soup with quinoa salad added a fresh element to the meal. High tea is served every evening with sweet and savoury snacks for all guests.
Shivambika arranged for a guide (Aviraj) to show me some of the local cultural experiences. He is the best person to experience the history and culture of Nathdwara. Even though Eklingji and Sreenathji are the most popular sights in this area, I enjoyed visiting the Sahasra Bahu Temples dating back to the 10th century. Built during the reign of King Mahipala of the Kachchhapaghata dynasty and dedicated to Lord Vishnu, their name—short for Sas Bahu (meaning "mother-in-law and daughter-in-law")—symbolizes harmony, reflecting their dual shrines and intricate carvings that celebrate devotion and artistry. Another must-do is a visit to the Pichwai artists. Pichwai art is a traditional Indian art form that emerged over 400 years ago in Nathdwara, as a devotional tribute to Lord Krishna, particularly in his Shrinathji form. These intricate hand-painted cloth artworks depict scenes from Krishna’s life, seasons, and festivals, using vibrant colors and fine detailing. Originally created as temple backdrops, Pichwai art embodies spiritual and artistic excellence, though it faces challenges today with the decline of skilled artisans. Made with natural pigments and gold leaf, the artworks can cost up to Rs 2,50,000.
For those who want a bit more action, the surrounding area offers forest safaris, nature walks, and the spiritual allure of the nearby town of Nathdwara, just a 5-minute drive away.
I left The Hill House feeling utterly refreshed and ready to take on the world again, but with a small part of me left behind in the serene embrace of this magical place. Whether you're planning a tranquil retreat, a family getaway, or even a special private function, this boutique gem offers an unforgettable experience.
Double rooms start at Rs 12,500 including breakfast and high tea.
Book: www.thehillhouse.in
