The Bangala, Karaikudi - The heart and soul of Chettinad

Nestled in the historic town of Karaikudi in Tamil Nadu, The Bangala is more than just a heritage hotel—it’s a living testament to the rich culture and cuisine of the Chettinad region. This family-run establishment has earned its place on the culinary map, ranked as the 7th Best Restaurant in India by Condé Nast Traveller in 2019.

Originally a British-era Gentlemen's Club, The Bangala was taken over by the Meyyappan family, with Meenakshi Meyyappan at the helm. Under her careful stewardship, the hotel has become renowned for its authentic Chettinad cuisine. Meyyappan co-authored The Bangala Table, a cookbook that showcases the diverse and bold flavors of the region. The property itself retains much of its traditional charm, with 33 rooms, quaint gardens, and classic Chettinad furnishings. The expansive verandahs and vintage décor are complemented by modern amenities, including a swimming pool and a library.

Our visit to The Bangala in September, as part of research for our Tamil popup project "Appalam," began with a warm welcome from GM Jacob George. The heat outside melted away as we stepped onto the cool, vibrant Athangudi tiles, an iconic element of the hotel’s design and the area’s local heritage. After settling into our spacious, traditionally furnished room, we were ready to indulge in the famed Chettinad cuisine.

In the open air dining area, our meals meals were served on banana leaves - crisp poppadoms, a corn pulao, keerai masiyal (spinach), sweet mango pachadi, green bell pepper and chickpea mandi, prawn ghee roast, chicken chettinad rava and cheese cutlets with a side of sambar and rasam. The meal was capped off with hot badam halwa and hand-churned vanilla ice cream (which you must request for at each meal), a sweet indulgence that left us in a blissful food coma.

Dinner at The Bangala took it a step further, with a feast of nose-to-tail dishes, iconic to this region. From paya soup and bheja fry to quail 65 and goat head curry, every dish was a bold, flavorful experience. A highlight of our stay was Chef Pandyan's cooking demo, where we learned to make their signature okra mandi, a dish we quickly devoured.

Exploring the hotel’s grounds revealed an abundance of treasures, including cabinets filled with books available upon request. For those interested in deepening their understanding of Chettinad, The Bangala offers cooking demos, Master Chef courses, and guided tours that highlight the region’s architectural and cultural heritage. Their in-house shop is also worth a visit for hand-painted coasters, cookbooks, and souvenirs. We even had the privilege of meeting Mrs. Meyyappan, who graciously signed copies of The Bangala Table.

Things to do in Karaikudi:

• For antique lovers, Karaikudi’s market is a treasure trove. Explore shops filled with iconic finds like Bombay Fornicator chairs, vintage photographs, and reproductions of Raja Ravi Varma’s artwork. We stumbled upon a warehouse next to Raghavendra Arts that had an extensive collection of plates, glasses, bowls, stock pots in enamelware. Don’t forget to bargain. It’s called chor bazaar for a reason. 
• Admire the craftsmanship of Athangudi tiles, eco-friendly handmade tiles that have long graced Chettinad mansions. Their vibrant designs, inspired by Victorian motifs, have a timeless appeal. Made with white and gray cement, sand, coloring oxide and water, they come in vibrant colors. You can find these in the local market. Visit some of the old palaces to have a look at the refined flooring that has stood the test of time. 
• If you’d like to try a local meal, Sri Priya Mess is quite popular and serves the usual banana leaf fare with all kinds of meats including rabbit. 
• Lakhsmanan Chettinad Snacks is an all-women run enterprise where they make local snacks such as adhirasam (fried sweet made out of rice, jaggery, ghee ) , seepu seedai (a ring shaped murukku), pasi paruppu urandai (moong dal laddoo) and the highlight - kai murukku (handmade twisted rings of murruku). The women are welcoming and will make you try various snacks before you buy. 
• Visit RMR for Chettinad cotton and silk sarees. This shop empowers women and you can watch them weave sarees right there.

Best way to get to Karaikudi: Fly to the nearest airports at Madurai and Trichy, both are an hour and half’s drive away from The Bangala.

Rooms start at Rs 7,500 per night including breakfast.

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