July 16, 2024
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The Nilgiris, or "Blue Hills," span the South Indian states of Tamil Nadu, Karnataka, and Kerala. This name derives from the periodic blooming of the kurinji flowers and the nascent eucalyptus leaves that cast a blue hue over the hills. Coonoor, situated at an elevation of 5000 feet boasts of botanical gardens, tea estates, and waterfalls. While Ooty has long been the most popular hill station in the region, its charm has been marred by over-tourism, similar to other hill stations like Shimla, Manali, and Mount Abu. As a result, tourists seeking a quieter mountain retreat have turned to Coonoor, the lesser-known sister hill station of the Nilgiris.
Perched on a sloping hillside in Bedford, Upper Coonoor, Milford is a quaint heritage bungalow that exudes old-world charm. Originally known as Milford Lodge, it was built in the late 1800s by George John Ingram Cotton, a dental surgeon with the British Army in India. Among his notable patients were Winston Churchill and Rudyard Kipling. In the mid-1900s, Siddharth Thomas’ family who are the current owners acquired Milford. For years, it served as a holiday home for the family and close friends, offering a cool retreat from the heat and chaos of Madras. It was a place to reconnect with their planter roots, filled with art and artifacts collected over a lifetime of travel, treasured old books, and cozy sunlit corners that fostered endless cups of tea and conversation. In 2021, Milford underwent a loving restoration. The family collectively worked to let in more light and incorporate modern amenities while retaining its historical charm and luxury. The dedicated team at Milford includes old and trusted estate employees, led by Sujatha, the wife of a planter with deep ties to Coonoor. Sujatha is the perfect guide to Coonoor's secrets.
Entering Milford, we were greeted by a spectacular garden with hydrangeas, roses, dahlias, and wild lupine. The bungalow's two rooms accessible from the porch are perfect for couples. The cozy living room with a television and fireplace leads to a master bedroom with a walk-in wardrobe and en suite bathroom. The dining room and kitchen connect to the second master bedroom, all designed with vintage furniture and modern comforts.
Meals at Milford, prepared by the in-house cook Selvan and his team, are a highlight. Our breakfast featured local delicacies like crisp ghee podi dosas, medu vadas and mini idlis. For lunch and dinner, we dug into crispy quail, prawn fry, Chettinad-style mutton curry, Malabar parottas, and appams with stew. A candlelight dinner and garden BBQ add to the culinary experience.
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A short walk from Milford is Bedford Circle, the main market. Kushal Traders offers a variety of rugs and dhurries, while Gaia Pottery provides quirky and classic pottery items. Moddy’s supermarket is a great place to buy local cheese (Gray’s Hill), tea, and coffee. We ran into Zubin Contractor, the go-to guide in Coonoor. On my previous visit, he led us on an unforgettable walking tour of the tea plantations—a must-do experience. We caught up at Sri Lakshmi Cafe in the market over a steaming cup of filter coffee and thatte idli.
The next morning, we visited Sutton Tea Estate, part of the AVT Group that owns Milford. In 1925, Alfred Vedam Thomas demonstrated that plantation management wasn't exclusive to the British by establishing a 300-acre tea plantation at Pasuparai, Tamil Nadu. Since then, AVT has expanded into various sectors, including rubber, coffee, vanilla, pepper, and cardamom, across different cities. Sutton Estate, which belongs to AVT, is Rainforest Alliance Certified and ranks as the third-largest tea estate in the district. Sutton produces 12 different grades of tea, primarily for export, and we had the opportunity to taste them. The tea tasting offered a fascinating insight into the intricate process behind a cup of tea, an essential part of every Indian household. The tour was both informative and enjoyable.
We spent the afternoon at Kikui Farm, owned by our friend and chef Vishant. The farm boasts a variety of produce, including tomatoes, elephant tusk okra, chayote, artichokes, rhubarb, habanero and cayenne peppers, and numerous types of beans, which are a staple in the Badaga diet, one of the four tribes of Coonoor. Vishant has established a community kitchen on the farm that includes a fermenting room where you can sample various pickles, sodas, and vinaigrettes. On Saturdays, he hosts community lunches, offering a hearty farm-to-table meal for those who sign up in advance. Many of his products are available at his newly opened store in Bedford, Kikui Farm Store.
Milford in Coonoor is more than just a place to stay; it’s an experience that combines historical charm with modern luxury, set against the backdrop of the beautiful Nilgiris. Whether exploring local markets, enjoying gourmet meals, or simply relaxing in the serene garden, a stay at Milford promises a memorable retreat.
Priced at Rs 50,000 for the 4-bedroom bungalow. Inclusive of breakfast.
Closest airport: 2-hour drive from Coimbatore airport.
Contact: +91 9443077516
