October 15, 2024
I recently took a solo trip to the mountains, hoping to carve out time for writing and reconnecting with nature. The Mary Budden Estate in Uttarakhand had long been on my bucket list, and it felt like the perfect retreat for this journey. The estate's history is as captivating as its surroundings—originally purchased in 1899 by Ms. Mary Budden, who turned it into a school for local orphans. Over a century later, Serena Chopra, a photographer and writer from Delhi, transformed it into her own mountain home.
Perched in the tranquil heights of Binsar, the estate is spread across five wooded acres. The original cottage, with its three cozy rooms, and the newer lodge, featuring four en-suite rooms with logwood fireplaces and antique furniture, create an atmosphere of rustic elegance. The breathtaking views of the Himalayan peaks stretch as far as the eye can see.
The rooms at Mary Budden Estate are pure luxury—sink-in beds, cozy seating areas, electric heated mattresses, and spacious bathrooms stocked with bespoke amenities. While the stunning views and warm, inviting rooms were a treat, what really stood out for me was the culinary experience and the impeccable service. Each day brought a new dining adventure, with every detail thoughtfully curated—from the beautifully set tables to the perfectly timed pauses between courses. Whether it was the always-refilled water glasses or remembering exactly how I like my tea, the staff made sure every moment felt special.
Breakfast at Mary Budden Estate is a magical experience, served on a terrace with sweeping mountain views. Each morning, a neat white tray is filled with fresh fruit, soaked nuts, homemade muesli and yogurt, and local cheeses, followed by a hearty choice of eggs, poha, upma, or hot parathas—a must-try. The estate offers a variety of unique dining experiences, and I indulged in the Himalayan Feast for lunch, featuring dishes from regions surrounding the Himalayas like Nepalese spring rolls, Tibetan Tingmo, and delicious Kumaoni mutton. Another unforgettable experience is the Milky Way Dinner, where you dine under a star-studded sky by candlelight, savoring a traditional Kumaoni thali. Hi-tea in the early evening is served on a charming landing just a short walk from the house, while late evenings are perfect for a BBQ by the bonfire. If you prefer indoor dining, the cozy dining room in the main cottage offers continental meals for a more relaxed dinner. There’s also the option of adventurous meals like The Wild Cat Brunch in the forest or Hamlet in the Hills, a traditional feast in the nearby Dalar village.
The nature trails around Mary Budden Estate are an absolute delight, winding through deodar and oak forests, all guided by a knowledgeable naturalist. Some of the highlights include the sacred site of Kasar Devi in Almora. Along with Machu Picchu and Stonehenge, it lies on the Van Allen radiation belt, which is believed to enhance meditation with its powerful cosmic energy—perfect for clearing the mind. Explore the ancient Jageshwar temples, a cluster of 101 stone-built Shiva temples, and venture along The Lama's Path for a spiritual trek with breathtaking sunrises. Another must-see is the Chitai Bells Temple, where hundreds of bells hang as offerings to the local god, Golu. For wildlife lovers, the birding trail is a treat—I was lucky enough to spot the Eurasian Jay, Blackheaded Jay, and a rare glimpse of the Jerdon’s baza. The estate is also heaven for dog lovers, with the affectionate Julie, Gabbar, Rufus, and Laila providing loyal companionship throughout my stay.
The closest airport is Pantnagar, a 5 hour drive away.
There’s a helipad in Dinapani, a 30-minute drive away.
A very comfortable Shatabdi Express from Delhi arrives at Kathgodam Station, a 3.5 hour drive away.
Rooms start at Rs 48,888 exclusive of tax, including all meals.
Book: www.marybuddenestate.com
