January 29, 2025
Stepping into Mantra Koodam feels like stepping back in time. Nestled in the quiet village of Veppathur, near Kumbakonam—the town of 5,000 temples—this retreat by CGH Earth is a living tribute to Tamil Nadu’s rich heritage. Designed like a traditional ‘agraharam’, a street lined with Brahmin homes, the property exudes an old-world charm that instantly transports you to a bygone era.
From the moment I arrived, the tolling of a temple bell set the tone for my stay. The cottages, modeled after ancient Tamil ‘illams’, feature sprawling verandahs, Athangudi-tiled floors, and ornately carved teak doors. My own dwelling, a Mantra Cottage, had a private pool and two bedrooms with an ornate swing in the middle. Walking through the property, I was surrounded by palm groves, a variety of flora (that has been labelled), temple shrines, and the occasional peacock gracefully crossing my path.
From sustainable practices to organic local produce, they have their own apothecary where they concoct herbal oils, shampoos, etc. They have their own water bottling plant providing clean drinking water to all rooms, a sewage treatment plant and segregated waste management to contribute towards their sustainability efforts.
The culinary experience was remarkable. Try the Kubakonam special omelette for breakfast prepared with local spices and cooked in a tadka pan. Dining at Annaprasana, I discovered the diverse flavors of Cholanadu cuisine, where spices like star anise and indigenous ingredients created a symphony of tastes. The meals balanced the four primary flavors—sweet, spicy, bitter, and sour—showcasing the depth of Tamil Nadu’s culinary heritage. Their newly opened specialty restaurant Aatrapaduthal offers a feast inspired by the 5 landscapes of Tamil Nadu from the Sangam era.
Exploring the region was like unlocking layers of history. One morning, I cycled through the village, passing by vibrant homes and local tea stalls, before arriving at Thirubuvanam, where master Saurashtrian weavers were creating exquisite silk sarees with pure gold thread. Later, in Swamimalai, I watched artisans sculpt divine bronze idols using the ancient ‘Lost Wax Casting’ technique—a skill passed down through generations. Each visit was an immersion into centuries-old traditions that still thrive today.
A short drive from the retreat led me to the Airavatesvara Temple, built by Chola emperor Rajaraja II in the 12th century, a stunning example of Chola architecture. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, it stands alongside the Brihadeeswara and Gangaikondacholisvaram Temples as part of the Great Living Chola Temples.
As I sipped on the signature ‘degree coffee’ at Mantra Koodam’s street-style tea shop on my last evening, I reflected on my journey. This wasn’t just a stay—it was an experience that intertwined history, art, and tradition into a seamless tapestry of time.
Double rooms start at Rs 10,000 +
Best way to get there is a flight to Trichy airport.
Book: www.cghearth.com/mantra-koodam
