April 4, 2024
12 days, 1285 kms, 3 states, 8 cities.
March, with its gentle warm breezes beckoned the traveler in me to embark on an adventure, to seek solace in the embrace of India’s cooler destinations. With this sentiment in my heart, we set forth on a 12-day road trip, weaving through the enchanting landscapes of South India's most picturesque hill stations. From the sun-kissed shores of Goa to the misty heights of the Nilgiris, my journey promised to be a tapestry of experiences, blending the familiar with the unexplored.
Itinerary:
Day 1: Drive from Goa to Chikmagalur
444 kms / 8 hours / Stay at The Serai
Day 2: Stay at the Serai
Day 3: Drive from Chikmagalur to Kabini (Pitstop in Mysore to eat)
211 kms / 4 hours / Stay with Lux Unlock’s new property to be open for booking shortly.
Day 4: Stay with Lux Unlock
Day 5: Drive from Kabini to Coonoor
155 kms / 3.5 hours / Stay at Chloe Cottage by Lux Unlock
Day 6: Stay at Chloe Cottage by Lux Unlock
Day 7: Drive from Coonoor to Wayanad
114 kms / 3 hours / Stay at Déjà View by Lux Unlock
Day 8: Stay at Déjà View by Lux Unlock
Day 9: Drive from Wayanad to Coorg
134 kms / 3.5 hours / Stay at Old Kent Estates
Day 10: Stay at Old Kent Estates
Day 11: Drive from Coorg to Kundapur (Pitstop in Mangalore to eat)
232 kms / 4.5 hours / Stay at Balkatmane Heritage Spa Resort
Day 12: Kundapur to Goa (Home Sweet Home)
Drive from Goa to Chikmagalur
Setting off from the sandy shores of Goa, my trusty car eagerly devoured the miles as we made our way towards Karnataka, bright and early at dawn. A mandatory pitstop at Hotel Ratna Sagar in Karwar treated us to crispy medu wadas and steaming cups of chai, rejuvenating us for the road ahead. Despite Google Maps' estimation of 9 hours, we reached Chikmagalur in just 8 hours, thanks to the smooth roads.
They also have clean toilets.
Check-in: The Serai
Nestled within a 77-acre coffee plantation, The Serai welcomed us with open arms. Founded by the visionaries behind Cafe Coffee Day, this oasis of luxury boasted 29 villas, each adorned with a private pool or jacuzzi. The landscape, reminiscent of an Arabian oasis, charmed us with its variety of palms and frangipani. The chef is enthusiastic to cook you up anything you like from a Malenadu feast to some good old Chinese.
Make sure to take a plantation walk followed by a coffee tasting with Pradeep the naturalist.
Rooms starts at Rs 28,000+
Book here
Drive from Chikmagalur to Kabini with a pitstop in Mysore
Embarking on the drive from Chikmagalur to Kabini, our route led us through the enchanting city of Mysore, a favorite among travelers for its rich history and vibrant culture. Amidst the bustling streets, we made a mandatory pitstop at Old Vinayaka, a renowned institution known for its delectable Mylari dosas. Typically, this hole-in-the-wall eatery would be swarming with hungry patrons, but to our surprise, we were directed to their new outpost just a few shops down the road. Despite the modern setting with cushioned couches, the essence of Old Vinayaka remained intact. We eagerly awaited our order—a piping hot benne masala dosa served with coconut chutney. The soft mildly sweet dosa certainly tops my list of favorites. Unlike the original outlet, this one also offered idlis and filter coffee. We ventured to the hipster haven of SAPA bakery for a refreshing drink and dessert, adding a sweet note to our gastronomic journey through Mysore. With our appetites satisfied, we continued our journey to Kabini, where excitement mounted for our first safari in the famed Nagarhole Tiger Reserve. As avid safari enthusiasts, the prospect of encountering the elusive black panther heightened our anticipation. Setting out on a morning safari, we traversed through the dry and arid landscape of the reserve, eager to catch a glimpse of its diverse wildlife. Our patience was rewarded when we spotted a majestic female tiger devouring her kill—a rare and thrilling sight that left us in awe. Amidst the rugged terrain, we encountered the Malabar Giant Squirrel, wild boar, spotted deer, sambal, peacocks, and an array of avian species, each adding to the allure of the Nagarhole habitat. Our stay at a beautiful villa by the Kabini river offered a serene retreat, with the Nagarhole Tiger Reserve on one side and the Bandipur National Park on the other. As we immersed ourselves in the tranquility of our surroundings, the memories of our safari adventure lingered, reminding us of the untamed beauty of nature that thrives in the heart of Kabini.
For more recommendations on Mysore, check out my story here.
The property in Kabini is yet to be open for bookings. Details out soon on www.luxunlock.in
Drive from Kabini to Coonoor
Venturing from Karnataka into Tamil Nadu, our journey led us through the Bandipur Tiger Reserve and Mudumalai Tiger Reserve, guiding us into the enchanting realm of the Nilgiris, or the "Blue Mountains." Aptly named, these hills appear azure from a distance, adorned with the abundance of Blue Gum eucalyptus trees. Nestled amidst this picturesque landscape lies Coonoor, a tranquil hill station adjacent to the bustling tourist hub of Ooty. As we ascended a steep winding road, away from the bustle of the main town, we found ourselves at Chloe Cottage—a charming abode straight out of a fairytale.
Check-in: Chloe Cottage by Lux Unlock
A two-bedroom cozy cottage inspired from the many Enid Blyton books that one has read. The wooden structure houses an open layout kitchen, a verdant garden for an evening cup of tea and two snug bedrooms with ensuite baths. The food is home cooked and fingerlicking good. The living room comes with a smart TV and I did not hesitate to put my feet up and enjoy some guilt-free TV time. The view of the valley below and the Nilgiri Hills in the distance is spectacular, accentuated by a full moon rise that painted the sky in ethereal hues.
The highlight of our stay in Coonoor was a guided tea garden walk with Zubin Contractor—an expert in the region's flora, fauna, and wildlife. He arrived with some freshly baked cake and I knew we were going to be friends. Zubin led us through the tea gardens, introducing us to various shrubs and wild berries that we trustingly tried. His passion for the local ecosystem was infectious, and by the end of the walk, we felt a newfound appreciation for the natural wonders that surrounded us.He can be reached only via Facebook Messenger.
Pop into the market to buy dhurries and rugs from Kushal Traders and Gray’s Hill preserves, local teas and coffee from Modern Stores.
Chloe Cottage can be booked exclusively on www.luxunlock.com
Drive from Coonoor to Wayanad
As we crossed the border from Tamil Nadu into the greener landscapes of Kerala, the scenery underwent a dramatic transformation. The road to Wayanad meandered through winding paths adorned with hairpin bends, leading us through a landscape adorned with Needle Pine forests and dense bamboo foliage.
Check-in: Déjà View by Lux Unlock.
On a private estate, sit six luxurious villas built as private homes. One of these homes is managed by luxury villa management and experiential company Lux Unlock. Déjà View is a plantation-style home with a high roof, flooded with natural light and featuring an open-layout living room, kitchen, television viewing area, loft, and two large bedrooms. As with every Lux Unlock managed property, the house comes with a local host available to assist you with anything you may need and a cook who prepares local fare.
Try the local Sadhya (vegetarian meal served on a banana leaf) or a Biryani meal at 1980's A Nostalgic restaurant. They house a spice and pickle shop. Try the Wayanad raw mango pickle. Calicut Chips is a great place to buy your stash of thin, crisp and perfectly salted banana chips.
Déjà View can be booked exclusively on www.luxunlock.com
Drive from Wayanad to Coorg
Returning to Coorg filled me with a sense of anticipation, eager to delve deeper into the charms of Madikeri and its surrounding areas. The roads are winding but overall in good condition.
Check-in: Old Kent Estates
Our destination this time was the illustrious Old Kent Estates, a beacon of heritage and tranquility nestled amidst a sprawling 200-acre coffee plantation. As we approached, the estate's grandeur unfolded before us, with towering gates beckoning us into a world of colonial splendor. Originally established by the British in the 1800s, the estate has been lovingly maintained by the Thaikappa family, now in its fourth generation. Stepping onto the grounds of Old Kent Estates felt like stepping back in time, to an era of opulence and refinement. Eight cottages and four newly renovated suites awaited us, each exuding its own unique charm. From the Ayurvedic spa to the home theater room, every corner of the estate seemed to whisper tales of a bygone era. The cottages are spacious with charming bathrooms with bathtubs and Epsom foot baths.
Our gracious host, Sadat Sathak, greeted us warmly and offered to guide us on a plantation expedition. Setting out early in the morning, we embarked on the Blue trail, a two-and-a-half-hour journey through the verdant estates. As we wandered amidst the coffee plants, the symphony of bird calls filled the air, enhancing the magic of the experience. Sadat's wealth of knowledge provided insights into every aspect of coffee cultivation, from planting to harvesting, offering a deeper appreciation for the intricate ecosystem that sustains it.
Visit Big Cup Cafe, a cafe and roastery in collaboration with Old Kent Estates for the complete bean to cup experience. Belli’s serves delicious Kodava cuisine including pork chops and kheema dosa. Coorg Spices Society is a good place to pick up local spices. Ainmane Specialty Store is a well curated store selling local coffee, masalas and pickles including Kachampuli or Coorg Dark Vinegar, the primary ingredient in a Pandi curry.
Old Kent Estates’ Rooms starts at Rs 12,000+
Book here
Drive from Coorg to Kundapura with a pitstop in Mangalore
On our journey from Coorg back to Goa, we knew the road ahead would be long. To break up the journey, we decided to spend a night in the small coastal town of Kundapura, in the heart of the Udupi district of Karnataka. But before we reached our final destination, we couldn't resist making a pit stop at some of our favorite spots in Mangalore. We arrived at the iconic Hotel Karthik for KT style coffee and a crisp tuppa (ghee) masala dosa. We popped into Buco, an impressive patisserie for a cold glass of passionfruit soda and a classic chocolate eclair. It doesn’t top here. An hour's drive from Buco led us to Thimmappa Fish Hotel, a bustling eatery teeming with hungry patrons. Here, we sampled the local specialty known as Disco, or Finned Bullseye—a delicacy fried to perfection and served with fish curry, rice, and sambhar on a traditional banana leaf.
Forty minutes later we arrived at Balkatmane Heritage Spa Resort in Kundapur. An 8-room property designed in the traditional Karnataka school of architecture with terracotta flooring and supported by sturdy khamb-wooden pillars, offering a glimpse into the region's cultural heritage. Our room, adorned with a comfortable four-poster bed, provided the perfect retreat after a long day of travel. The property has beautifully maintained gardens with a variety of local flora, a dining room serving local vegetarian fare and a spa popular for its rejuvenating treatments.
Rooms are priced at Rs 10,000+ per night.
Balkatmane can be booked on www.ewaproperties.in
As our journey drew to a close, we embarked on the final leg of our adventure—a six-hour drive from Kundapura back to Goa.
Throughout our journey, the roads were smooth and relatively hassle-free. However, as we traversed the highways, we couldn't help but notice the pervasive issue of trash dumping along the roadside—a stark reminder of the environmental challenges that persist in our modern world. Determined to do our part in preserving the natural beauty of the regions we traversed, we made a conscious effort to minimize our environmental impact. Carrying our own water flasks and containers, we aimed to reduce our consumption of single-use plastic—a small gesture towards promoting sustainability and responsible travel practices.
As we reflected on the memorable experiences and adventures we had encountered along the way, we felt compelled to extend our heartfelt gratitude to those who had made our journey truly unforgettable. A special vote of thanks to Ashish and Rucha Gupta and their dedicated team at Lux Unlock, whose meticulously planned itinerary and curated experiences had enriched our travels beyond measure. Their attention to detail and commitment to excellence ensured that every moment of our journey was filled with joy and wonder. We also extend our gratitude to Sadat Sathak at Old Kent Estates for the enlightening plantation walk, where we gained insights into the rich history and heritage of Coorg's coffee plantations. His passion and enthusiasm for the land were infectious, leaving a lasting impression on our hearts. Finally, we express our deepest appreciation to the entire team at The Serai for their warm hospitality and gracious welcome.
As we bid farewell to the enchanting landscapes and cherished memories of our journey, we carry with us a renewed sense of wonder and gratitude for the beauty of our country. Until our next adventure beckons, we cherish the moments we shared and the connections we forged along the way.
