August 6, 2024

Dudhsagar Plantation: A rustic farmstay at a spice plantation in Goa

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Dudhsagar Falls, a four tier waterfall is a popular attraction in the hinterland of Goa. Adjacent to this magnificent waterfall is the Dudhsagar Plantation, a coconut and cashew plantation run by Ashok Malkarnekar of Indo-German descent. His parents - Ajit and Doris built this farm to start an eco-agricultural project in Ajit’s hometown. From digging an irrigation well to installing a biogas digester for a self-sustaining cooking gas supply, Ajit and Doris transformed 50 acres of barren land into a thriving green oasis in the district. By employing traditional, strictly organic methods, they cultivated an evergreen ecosystem. Their efforts were continued by Ashok, one of Ajit’s three children, who introduced a farm-stay component to the plantation.

The Cottage

Dudhsagar Plantation offers a rustic farmstay with 6 cottages, neatly maintained and surrounded by a canopy of coconut and betel nut trees. Guests can unwind in the natural swimming pool and practice yoga at the dedicated shala, all while savoring the serene pace of farm life.

The Natural Swimming Pool

The common dining area at Dudhsagar Plantation serves up delicious local vegetarian dishes presented in a farm-fresh thali. Many of these dishes feature ingredients harvested directly from the plantation. Guests can also purchase homemade ghee, coconut oil, jams, and pickles crafted by the staff. During my visit in the monsoon season, I had the chance to enjoy Roen Olmi, edible wild mushrooms that thrive on termite hills through a fascinating mutualistic relationship. I also discovered a local favorite: taro leaves, abundant across Goa, cooked with tangy kokum and sweet whole garlic for a unique and flavorful dish. 

The Dining Room
Lunch Thali (Wild mushrooms in the bowl second from left)

This is primarily a cashew plantation and where there are cashews - there’s feni and Urak! Ajit’s Urak (first distilled cashew liquor) has become famous within and beyond Goa for its excellent quality and purity. They also craft their own spiced feni, a family-secret recipe, which stands out with its distinctive golden hue and is aptly named Ouro, meaning "Gold" in Portuguese.

There's much to discover at the plantation. You can embark on a 1.5-kilometer nature trail, guided by a detailed map of the property, to explore the lush surroundings. One of the highlights of Dudhsagar Plantation is its immersive plantation tours. Guests can explore the sprawling estate, learn about the cultivation of various spices and fruits, and even participate in harvesting activities. Amongst many, they grow cinnamon, cardamom, all spice, chillies, pepper, nutmeg, arecanut, ginger, mango turmeric and triphal (Goa’s version of the sichuan pepper). These tours offer a hands-on experience and a deeper appreciation of the hard work involved in maintaining a plantation.  For those who appreciate a fine drink, a visit to their heritage distillery offers a chance to see the traditional process of making feni. Take a dip in the Sacred Cove, brimming with fresh blue water and a great place to get a fish spa. If you’re lucky and the weather is right, Ashok will take you on a secret trail to a cascade where you can take a dip and enjoy nature’s bounty. Bird watchers will particularly enjoy the opportunity to observe a variety of bird species in their natural habitat. You’ll spot five super friendly dogs loitering around and happy to accompany you on a trail.

Trying to figure which spice this is

The Sacred Cove
Mango Turmeric for my home garden
The Cascade
Ashok, Me, Joy (At the cascade)

There are a few iconic attractions that you can drive to including the Tambdi Surla Temple and Waterfall, Portuguese-era colonial mansions at Chandor, Historical rock carvings at Kushavati, Bhagwan Mahavir Wildlife Sanctuary and my favorite - the Salaulim Dam and Botanical Garden.

Salaulim Dam

If you adore the monsoon and the wildlife it attracts, this is an ideal time to visit.  relished watching the rain from my porch, sipping on a bottle of Scaia Corvina Veneto—BYOB—and listening to the melodious chirping of the birds.

Tips:

November to February is the ideal time to explore the plantation.

It is an hour and a half drive from central Goa.

Rooms start at Rs 5000 per night including breakfast. 

Meals can be pre-ordered at Rs 300 per head.

Dudhsagar Plantation, Karmane Village, Mollem National Park, 403706 Goa * Tel +919765364456 * dudhsagarplantation@gmail.com

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