September 23, 2024
Perched majestically above the sacred Narmada River in the heart of Maheshwar, Ahilya Fort is more than just a historic landmark; it's a living testament to India's regal past. Originally the seat of Maharani Ahilyabai Holkar, who ruled from 1765 to 1796, the fort encompasses Ahilya Wada—her personal residence, offices, and darbar (audience hall). It was from here that the legendary queen transformed the town into a spiritual and cultural hub.
Fast forward to the year 2000, and Ahilya Wada underwent a transformation that opened its doors to the world. Prince Richard Holkar, a direct descendant of the Maharani and the son of the last Maharaja of Indore, reimagined his ancestral home as a boutique guest residence. What began as an homage to his remarkable lineage is now celebrated globally as the Ahilya Fort Hotel, a boutique retreat that marries royal heritage with contemporary comfort.
The Ahilya Fort Hotel offers 19 distinctive rooms spread across six restored 18th-century buildings, blending historic charm with modern comforts. Guests can wander through three acres of tranquil courtyards, lush gardens, and serene fountains, each path leading to quiet nooks perfect for reading, sipping tea, or simply watching butterflies dance in the air.
At Ahilya Fort Hotel, dining is a thoughtful and immersive experience. Lunch features a light Western menu, while dinner is a grander affair—a traditional thali with locally inspired dishes. Meals are served in various charming locations across the property, offering a new setting for each course. Pre-dinner refreshments, non-alcoholic and candlelit, are enjoyed at the mandap sitout, where guests can take in views of the Narmada River. The hotel sources most of its ingredients from its organic garden and Holkar farm, ensuring fresh, seasonal flavors. The hotel's bee-keeping program, home to 13 boxes of stingless bees, plays a vital role in pollinating the lush gardens.
The swimming pool at Ahilya Fort Hotel is a serene oasis, nestled among lemon and neem trees. Guests can indulge in a village-style Nimaadi Maalish massage, provided by skilled local masseurs—Jaya’s head massage was a highlight for me. A sound healing session with Amma Niradhara in the zen garden was a beautiful way to connect with the tranquility within the fort’s ancient walls. Embracing sustainability, the hotel is powered by 60% solar energy, and electric cars are used to transport guests from the airport, furthering their commitment to eco-friendly practices.
Ahilya Fort Hotel is perfectly located for exploring the rich cultural heritage of Maheshwar. Guests can immerse themselves in the lively village markets and visit the riverside complex of temples and cenotaphs. A highlight of my visit was the Rehwa Society, a not-for-profit organization established by the Holkars in the late ‘70s to revive Maheshwar’s ancient hand weaving craft and provide employment to women. Today, over 55 weavers create the globally renowned Maheshwari sari. A sunset boat ride on the Narmada, with boatman Dashrath offering a serene journey to Baneshwar Temple with a cup of tea, was simply breathtaking. For a unique experience, a walk through the organic garden with chief gardener Bhola and Chef Narayan is a must-do.
Other experiences at Ahilya Fort Hotel include a private picnic amidst the secluded ruins of Mandu, offering breathtaking views of the plateau below. Classic hatha yoga sessions on the Fort’s southwestern turret, overlooking the serene Narmada River, provide a perfect moment of mindfulness. To top it all, indulge in a candlelit dinner in the garden of one of the Holkar State’s former chief nobles—an elegant and intimate way to end the day, surrounded by history, nature, and timeless beauty.
Best way to get there is a flight to Devi Ahilyabai Holkar International Airport, Indore followed by a 2-hour drive to Maheshwar
Rooms start at Rs 20,000 per night including all meals.
Book: www.ahilyafort.com
