March 30, 2024

A coffee plantation stay from the Colonial era: Old Kent Estates, Coorg

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Amidst the lush greenery of Coorg, Old Kent Estates stands as a timeless testament to a bygone era. Built in 1864 by the distinguished British owner and founding member of the Coorg Planters Association (CPA), Lieutenant Colonel W.R. Wright, the Old Kent Lodge exudes an air of elegance and grandeur, perched majestically atop a vantage point within this 200-acre coffee estate. Following Lieutenant Colonel Wright's ownership, the property stayed within his family's possession until 1964, when it was acquired by the current proprietors, the Thaikappa family, originating from southern Tamil Nadu. Over the subsequent five decades, four generations of the Thaikappa family have relished the estate as a beloved holiday retreat, brimming with cherished memories from their childhoods. Currently, the estate is under the purview of Sadat Sathak from the Thaikappa family.

As I stepped onto the verandah of the Lodge, I was greeted by a breathtaking 180-degree view of the surrounding mountains and valleys. Surrounded by coffee bushes and woodlands are 8 cottages and 4 newly renovated suites along with a spa. The rooms, each named after members of the Wright family, are adorned with period furnishings and seamlessly incorporate all the modern comforts one could desire. The expansive bathrooms feature bathtubs, Epsom foot baths, and bath products sourced from Holy Lama Naturals, a Kerala-based enterprise dedicated to empowering women from lower socioeconomic backgrounds.

The best way to unwind after a plantation walk is to indulge in a Kerala-style ayurvedic massage at the inhouse spa. You can also spend the day lolling around the estate, either immersed in a book in Colonel Wright's Study or enjoying a movie in Leslie's lounge which boasts of a curated DVD collection.

You can choose to dine at the verandah of the main lodge or at Planter’s Perch, a cozy canopy ideal for a quiet dining experience. The menu offers Indian and Continental fare including local Kodava delicacies including Baimbale Kari (bamboo shoot curry) or koli curry (Coorg style chicken curry) with akki roti (rice flour bread). Coffee is freshly ground and brewed, meticulously crafted from a diverse selection of Arabicas and Robustas from the estate. 

The highlight of our stay was the morning plantation walk with Sadat Sathak. We started off at 6.30am from the main lodge. There are three trails one can explore based on endurance and interest levels. The beginner’s or yellow trail is a 45-minute walk around the main estate. The red trail is an hour and a half long and covers a 4km loop around the plantation. We took the blue trail, which is a two and a half hour walk covering 6.5kms and takes you around and through the estate including the nursery, pulper house (where all the action happens) and Karadi Mara (Bear Tree) which is rumored to be the oldest tree in the whole village, almost 400 years old. The estate mainly produces Robusta coffee with some amounts of Arabica. Pepper grows in abundance followed by cardamon, jackfruit and cacao. Old Kent seamlessly integrates ecotourism with the vibrant rainforest flora, nestled beneath towering timber trees like teak, rosewood, and mahogany, rendering it a premier luxury eco resort.

Bear Tree
Pepper ready to be dried

With over 42 species of birds, a thriving plantation and star studded nights, Old Kent was not just a boutique resort, but a sanctuary for the soul—a place where nature, nostalgia, and tranquility converged in perfect harmony.

Rooms start at Rs 12,000+ per night 

Book here: www.oldkentresorts.com

Best way to get here: Mangalore airport is a 4-hour drive away.

When in Madikeri:

Big Cup Cafe - A roastery and cafe co-owned by Sadat and the Old Kent Estates.

Ainmane Specialty Store for Coffee, masalas and pickles.

BELLI’s for a traditional Kodava meal including kheema dosa

Coorg Spices Society for spices